? for ppl tht know about cars: Possible to misdiagnose a "valve cover gasket leak"?

Cap dat 4ss · 03-15-11, 04:42 PM

No reason for your inspector to put that if he didn't really find it but very good reason for dildos wrench monkey to say everything is fine. Go with the independent, non-biased inspectors report or else you'll be replacing the head gasket and getting your valves machined

sharpcat · 03-15-11, 04:51 PM

Nothing above your valve covers that could leak. So basically if there was oil around that area than it had to be from the valve cover.

Most used vehicles will have minor oil leaks if it is leaking bad it is usually really simple to replace valve cover gaskets, remove bolts, remove valve cover, peel of old gasket, wipe everything down, put new gasket on, replace valve cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern making sure not to over tighten and split the gasket.

If it is no leaking fresh oil and is only stained with oil residue it does not need to be replaced.

jpowderly · 03-15-11, 05:06 PM

I would say it is probably leaking oil. The valve cover gaskets are not always easy to change. I would research the year and make of the car on the internet, to find out who hard it will be.

Smoke · 03-15-11, 05:10 PM

If the mechanic is a retard than I would say yes

Doug · 03-15-11, 05:25 PM

Originally posted by sharpcat

Nothing above your valve covers that could leak. So basically if there was oil around that area than it had to be from the valve cover.

Most used vehicles will have minor oil leaks if it is leaking bad it is usually really simple to replace valve cover gaskets, remove bolts, remove valve cover, peel of old gasket, wipe everything down, put new gasket on, replace valve cover and tighten bolts in a criss-cross pattern making sure not to over tighten and split the gasket.

If it is no leaking fresh oil and is only stained with oil residue it does not need to be replaced.

the problem is that costs $100 an hour to do.

whatsgood5 · 03-15-11, 05:25 PM

Called in to the local mechanic I use for a quote on it yesterday, and he said the part's relatively cheap, but it's a three hour job, so I'd kinda be getting boned there on like $80/hr labor. Apparently from what I've found online since it's a V6 they have to like completely take the engine out or some shit like that.

Thanks for all your answers guys, I've got one more quick question for anyone that'd be able to answer it.

What's the deal with the belts? I know this is probably tough to answer without actually seeing them, but is it usually necessary and/or a good idea to replace "worn belts", or do you wait for them to break or something? What's the strategy involved there?

Roadtrip635 · 03-15-11, 05:44 PM

Change the belts if they look worn, glazed, frayed or starting to show cracks. DO NOT wait for them to break, could lead to a catastrophic failure.

sharpcat · 03-15-11, 07:07 PM

Originally posted by whatsgood5

Called in to the local mechanic I use for a quote on it yesterday, and he said the part's relatively cheap, but it's a three hour job, so I'd kinda be getting boned there on like $80/hr labor. Apparently from what I've found online since it's a V6 they have to like completely take the engine out or some shit like that.

Thanks for all your answers guys, I've got one more quick question for anyone that'd be able to answer it.

What's the deal with the belts? I know this is probably tough to answer without actually seeing them, but is it usually necessary and/or a good idea to replace "worn belts", or do you wait for them to break or something? What's the strategy involved there?

You had better learn some key mechanical words and some slick talking before you go to see a mechanic or else he is going to bury you on every possible part that is due to be replaced, even though you really do not need to replace it.

This mechanic is going to be drooling like a bookie taking on a new player asking "what is a 10 team parlay?"

Looks like that point stiffing history may be coming back around on you!!!