1. #1
    OldBill
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    10 new cars unreliable by consumers reports shocking top brands

    Least reliable car brands in America















    When looking to buy a car, reliability is important, but it’s one of the harder things for car reviewers like us to evaluate. Thankfully, Consumer Reports polls its subscribers annually in order to judge which brands and models are the most reliable. CR also shows the least reliable brands in that ranking, which should help you narrow down your shopping list, giving you a sense of which brands to best avoid if squeaks, rattles or major malfunctions are a big concern for you.
    CR says it didn’t have enough data to rate the Alfa Romeo, Dodge, Fiat, Jaguar, Land Rover, Maserati, Mitsubishi and Polestar brands.
    Here, we’ve listed the 10 least reliable car brands in the U.S., according to CR’s data.
    10. Kia






    Despite the Kia Niro Electric making the top 10 reliable models this year, the brand as a whole gets dragged down by poor ratings from the Sorento, Forte and Seltos.
    9. Volvo




    Historically, Volvo is known for making safe and reliable cars. Its current lineup falls short, however, with the XC90 being the brand’s least reliable model.
    8. Ram




    The Ram 2500 and 1500 pickups don’t get stellar reliability scores, but the 1500 Classic had a predicted reliability score of just 11 out of 100, bring the brand as a whole down by 12 positions compared to last year’s overall reliability rankings.
    7. GMC




    GMC as a brand suffers from a terrible 2-out-of-100 score for the Yukon and a score of 11 for the Sierra 1500.
    6. Mercedes-Benz WTF $35,000




    Mercedes scores two positions worse this year, with the GLE being its least reliable model in CR’s survey.
    5. Volkswagen





    None of four VW models — Jetta, Atlas, ID.4 and Tiguan — score above 50 points out of 100, but The Tiguan was the worst, at just 17 points.
    4. Genesis overpriced P O S




    Hyundai’s luxury brand had just two models represented in CR’s study, and while the G70 scored 55 points out of 100, the GV80 SUV scored just 5 points.
    3. Jeep




    2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon in Gecko green
    Though the Jeep Cherokee, Wrangler and Gladiator are able to get you off the beaten path, they can also land you in the shop, with reliability scores of 30, 25 and 23, respectively.
    2. Tesla




    The Tesla Model 3 EV scored the best of the brand, with 59 points, but the Model S, Y and X scored 20, 18 and 5, in that order. It retains its position on the list as the second-least reliable brand.
    1. Lincoln





    Ford’s luxury brand Lincoln retains the dubious honor of being the least reliable, with the Aviator being the most egregious offender. It’s a shame, as Lincoln makes some otherwise enjoyable vehicles.

    YEAH one mechanic had R O F L MAO Said afiter i saif Fixed or reapired daily found on road dead

    he said whats it backwards Driver Returns ON Foot

    i had one did that to me Trans failed after only 1 year walked home 7 blocks

    to fix trans it was gonna cost like $1200 i only paid $750 for the ford taurus f/u bought a decent olds cutlass for $950

    Could drive circles around that POS

    JUNK yard gave me $250 for the ford

    was able to drive it there trans would kick out but only had to shut off for 20 mins restyart it

    then go fast as possible


  2. #2
    TheMoneyShot
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    Instead of the top 10 cars...

    It's every manufacturer. They all suck.

    If you buy a vehicle new.... and in 6 years hasn't given you any issues... consider yourself very lucky.

  3. #3
    TheMoneyShot
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    I've had a few brand new vehicles in my life. I've ran every single one with Mobil 1 Synthetic. The engine purrs like a kitten. 10 years later... the engine is so quiet...

    It's the other bullsh#$ on the vehicle that goes bonkers on you....

    1. I recommend using Mobil 1 Synthetic at every 5k-6k. Or 6 months. Whatever comes first.

    2. Never upgrade any electrical component. Don't upgrade your radio (head unit). Don't put in any alarm system. Use STOCK ONLY. Not even Dealership installed stuff. You want... from the assembly line only. I promise you... if you upgrade sh##.... years down the road... you will have electrical issues. Things will malfunction much quicker than normal.

    3. Always review your service manual... and change fluids for severe wear and tear.

    4. When buying new tires.... stick to the same brand of tire that came with the vehicle. Don't upgrade.


    With these new advanced electronic engines now.... it's so hard to make a vehicle last. They are all built like sh##.
    Points Awarded:

    MaltedHopsFrenzy gave TheMoneyShot 2 Betpoint(s) for this post.


  4. #4
    MaltedHopsFrenzy
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheMoneyShot View Post
    I've had a few brand new vehicles in my life. I've ran every single one with Mobil 1 Synthetic. The engine purrs like a kitten. 10 years later... the engine is so quiet...

    It's the other bullsh#$ on the vehicle that goes bonkers on you....

    1. I recommend using Mobil 1 Synthetic at every 5k-6k. Or 6 months. Whatever comes first.

    2. Never upgrade any electrical component. Don't upgrade your radio (head unit). Don't put in any alarm system. Use STOCK ONLY. Not even Dealership installed stuff. You want... from the assembly line only. I promise you... if you upgrade sh##.... years down the road... you will have electrical issues. Things will malfunction much quicker than normal.

    3. Always review your service manual... and change fluids for severe wear and tear.

    4. When buying new tires.... stick to the same brand of tire that came with the vehicle. Don't upgrade.


    With these new advanced electronic engines now.... it's so hard to make a vehicle last. They are all built like sh##.

    This - especially the synthetic @ 5,000 miles. I’ve been using the synthetic as long as it’s been around. I just recently traded in (got $1,000 ‘off’ on another vehicle) a 2008 Dodge FU##ING Caravan that had 365,000 miles on it, and was still running O.K. - but was looking shabby & we needed an upgrade. I think the synthetic (and regular maintenance) kept it going that long & use it in all my other vehicles. Pay the extra $20-$30 or whatever per oil change, it’s worth it in the long run.

  5. #5
    TheMoneyShot
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaltedHopsFrenzy View Post

    This - especially the synthetic @ 5,000 miles. I’ve been using the synthetic as long as it’s been around. I just recently traded in (got $1,000 ‘off’ on another vehicle) a 2008 Dodge FU##ING Caravan that had 365,000 miles on it, and was still running O.K. - but was looking shabby & we needed an upgrade. I think the synthetic (and regular maintenance) kept it going that long & use it in all my other vehicles. Pay the extra $20-$30 or whatever per oil change, it’s worth it in the long run.
    Hit the nail on the head. I used to have my oil changes down to a science. I buy my synthetic oil from Walmart.com have it shipped to my house. It's cheaper than any other place. Buy my oil filters in bulk on ebay. You get it for a very good price... half these dudes steal them from their dealership and sell them on ebay lol Savings go to you. I have this oil change place that I've gone to for several years. You hand them all of your stuff... oil filter... oil... even air filter if its time to change it... they do everything for $22.00 and you can WATCH THEM put the exact oil you gave them in your vehicle. So... I used to get my entire synthetic change for just under $50.00 (They did bump the price up to $30.00) this year for the service.

    When you go to an oil change place and request synthetic... do you really know if you're getting synthetic? Typically no. So you pay... what?? $70.00?? $75.00 for synthetic at a quick oil change shop... and you could be getting a synthetic blend... which is half synthetic half conventional... or maybe pure conventional. Furthermore, you can't even trust a dealership to put in synthetic oil in your car... even when you pay for it. Scammers everywhere. I feel MUCH BETTER going to an oil change place... and watching them put the oil I hand them in my vehicle.
    Last edited by TheMoneyShot; 05-07-22 at 01:56 PM.

  6. #6
    hehfest
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheMoneyShot View Post
    Hit the nail on the head. I used to have my oil changes down to a science. I buy my synthetic oil from Walmart.com have it shipped to my house. It's cheaper than any other place. Buy my oil filters in bulk on ebay. You get it for a very good price... half these dudes steal them from their dealership and sell them on ebay lol Savings go to you. I have this oil change place that I've gone to for several years. You hand them all of your stuff... oil filter... oil... even air filter if its time to change it... they do everything for $22.00 and you can WATCH THEM put the exact oil you gave them in your vehicle. So... I used to get my entire synthetic change for just under $50.00 (They did bump the price up to $30.00) this year for the service.

    When you go to an oil change place and request synthetic... do you really know if you're getting synthetic? Typically no. So you pay... what?? $70.00?? $75.00 for synthetic at a quick oil change shop... and you could be getting a synthetic blend... which is half synthetic half conventional... or maybe pure conventional. Furthermore, you can't even trust a dealership to put in synthetic oil in your car... even when you pay for it. Scammers everywhere. I feel MUCH BETTER going to an oil change place... and watching them put the oil I hand them in my vehicle.

    I do/feel the same exact way. I have a 01 bimmer v6 manual tran with almost 230K on it. Last time I brought my own full synthetic oil with me. I would do it myself if not for the dam waste since I work on my own car. He took the oil bottle away and supposedly poured it into one of their dispersers......but even wonder if they fukked me there when I wasn't looking. I brought the filter with me too.

    I might buy myself a drive-way lift type thingy pretty soon and do everything myself. I've told stories before maybe not here about how dealerships try to rip you off big time. Will never let them fix anything again. I got lucky the one time I got a second opinion.

    People think this would be paranoid, but these snakes will get you when you look the other way. Then, put the oil bottle in their own car and sell it on Ebay.

  7. #7
    hehfest
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    Quote Originally Posted by hehfest View Post
    I do/feel the same exact way. I have a 01 bimmer v6 manual tran with almost 230K on it. Last time I brought my own full synthetic oil with me. I would do it myself if not for the dam waste since I work on my own car. He took the oil bottle away and supposedly poured it into one of their dispersers......but even wonder if they fukked me there when I wasn't looking. I brought the filter with me too.

    I might buy myself a drive-way lift type thingy pretty soon and do everything myself. I've told stories before maybe not here about how dealerships try to rip you off big time. Will never let them fix anything again. I got lucky the one time I got a second opinion.

    People think this would be paranoid, but these snakes will get you when you look the other way. Then, put the oil bottle in their own car and sell it on Ebay.

    And a tip for some of you that run on full synthetic.....put the hightest octane in your vehicle you can possibly find. I put rec90 pure gas that is used for boats in mine as much as I can. The gas station gas is garbage. I'm trying to avoid the ethanol by doing the rec90. Little lower octane but the no-ethanol makes up for it.

    https://www.pure-gas.org/

  8. #8
    OldBill
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    i use slick 50 now as i did years ago protects most all moving engine parts good for 50 thou miles car runs cooler and smoother gas milegae better synthetics break down just like other oils and are no good after 3000 miles

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