 SBR Top-Rated Sportsbooks |
Best Sportsbooks List
|
|
| |||||
| #1 FanDuel | SBR rating 4.8/5 | Review | #6 BetRivers | SBR rating 4.1/5 | Review | #2 Caesars | SBR rating 4.7/5 | Review | #7 Fanatics | SBR rating 4.1/5 | Review |
| #3 DraftKings | SBR rating 4.7/5 | Review | #8 Betway | SBR rating 3.8/5 | Review | ||
| #4 BetMGM | SBR rating 4.6/5 | Review | #9 Borgata | SBR rating 3.5/5 | Review | ||
| #5 bet365 | SBR rating 4.6/5 | Review | #10 ClutchBet | SBR rating 2.9/5 | Review | ||
I'm finding this interesting how this system feeds on itself. I have no data to prove this yet but there seems to be calm periods and then all of a sudden things break down and we have to go to work with multiple B games and A C here and there.
then bam, calm again. The universe works in mysterious ways.
The tragic ending of the years the last 2 years
Two + years that I have been following and winning. Boxes are the end of the year. See other graphs
2 years ago all was going GREAT up to the very end and then.
Last year - happened a little earlier but and not as violently . . . .
RodMelotte.com
|
|
Wallco NHL GOLD
2013-14 System to date: 16-0 (fin. series)
System profit/loss: +16.00 units (fin.series)
Current open series: 1 (-1.15 units)
(10/25/13):
#17 Buffalo (+1½) v2 (A) - Win
v1 Fades
(A) 9-3
(B) 2-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
v2 Plays
(A) 5-0
(B) 0-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
Games for (10/26/13):
#16 New Jersey(+1½) @ Boston v1 (B) (7:05 pm EDT)
#18 Washington @ Calgary (+1½) v1 (A) (10:05 pm EDT)
Do not place any wagers on teams unless you are sure your team is the dog or favorite. The team underlined and highlighted blue is the team we are betting on, regardless of v1 or v2. If you play the closer line games too early, you may be overpaying for a loss if you play the P/L and should have been on the M/L, or lose a game that you would have won had you been on the (+1½) instead of the M/L. We will always play the M/L on favorites and (-110) games, and always play the (+1½) if the team we are betting on is a dog. ALL results will be based on this principle. If it is a close line game, you may want to wait til closer to game time to place your wager so you know whether or not we are on the (+1½) or the (M/L). All lines and standings are based on FINAL lines from ScoresandOdds.com/. If one of the teams we are playing switches from a favorite to a dog, or vice versa, after my initial post, make sure you get the appropriate line if it differs from what I have posted. The wins and losses will be based on who is the dog team on ScoresandOdds.com/ final lines.
System rules & backtest can be found in posts #2446 and #2447.
Last edited by Wallco99; 10-26-13 at 11:21 AM.
|
|
Wallco,
When was the A bet on New Jersey? The last one I show was on the 19th and we won that one. So I'm guessing I missed a play?
Thanks.
You are betting against Boston - won 4 in a row.Originally Posted by bisturis
Oh got it. Thanks!
It was the Boston fade (v1), our only open series. The (A) bet was on 10/24/13. You don't remember the day and a half debate on whether or not San Jose was a dog or a favorite? Lol.
|
|
Wallco...
...you are a man of great patience.
Nothing worse then having your team, down 1 with +1.5 pull their goal tender at the end.
unless they tie it up :-)
then its awesome.
Ohhhh THAT day. Now I remember! Lol. Thanks for clearing that up.
Thanks Wallco. Just another day at the office for you.
System has started really strong. Thanks Wallco!
Wallco NHL GOLD
2013-14 System to date: 18-0 (fin. series)
System profit/loss: +18.00 units (fin.series)
Current open series: 0
(10/26/13):
#16 New Jersey (+1½) v1 (B) - Win
#18 Calgary (+1½) v1 (A) - Win
v1 Fades
(A) 10-3
(B) 3-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
v2 Plays
(A) 5-0
(B) 0-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
Games for (10/27/13):
#19 Anaheim (+1½) @ Columbus v1 (A) (6:05 pm EDT)
#20 Winnipeg (+1½) @ Colorado v1 (A) (8:05 pm EDT)
Do not place any wagers on teams unless you are sure your team is the dog or favorite. The team underlined and highlighted blue is the team we are betting on, regardless of v1 or v2. If you play the closer line games too early, you may be overpaying for a loss if you play the P/L and should have been on the M/L, or lose a game that you would have won had you been on the (+1½) instead of the M/L. We will always play the M/L on favorites and (-110) games, and always play the (+1½) if the team we are betting on is a dog. ALL results will be based on this principle. If it is a close line game, you may want to wait til closer to game time to place your wager so you know whether or not we are on the (+1½) or the (M/L). All lines and standings are based on FINAL lines from ScoresandOdds.com/. If one of the teams we are playing switches from a favorite to a dog, or vice versa, after my initial post, make sure you get the appropriate line if it differs from what I have posted. The wins and losses will be based on who is the dog team on ScoresandOdds.com/ final lines.
System rules & backtest can be found in posts #2446 and #2447.
Last edited by Wallco99; 10-27-13 at 10:28 AM.
|
|
Hello, just started to use the system, its interesting for sure. I have two questions regarding it, how many units would you recommend to keep in my betting roll (I want to be on the aggressive side on this). Also, where do you think you get the edge from this system ? You think teams that are on winning streaks are overestimated by bookies ? Thank you
I get my edge from the results of a 10 year backtest which shows great returns when betting on or against teams on these streaks. Note: Just because system has performed so well in the past doesn't necessarily mean that it will every season, but for the most part, it has. It's hard to say how many units to have, because we never know how many (C) bets we will eventually have at one time. A loss could cost in excess of 30 units at times. I play with a private book, so I don't play with fixed total bankroll amounts. Maybe some of the other players who play with fixed amounts per system can better answer that part of your question.
Last edited by Wallco99; 10-27-13 at 10:51 AM.
My pleasure.
Being down 4 goals with 1:40 to go when in a +1 1/2 (C) bet @ -320 odds would seem worse to me, but that is just a matter of opinoin.
I use about 1/2 of 1% of my bankroll as a unit. This is an extremely juice-heavy system and two or three C bets in one night can be both nerve-wracking and dangerous to your bankroll if you're not conservative enough.
So your unit size changes from week to week based on the amount of your total bankroll at the time? This is where we differ, mine remains constant, which is why it was hard for me to answer his question.
Sorry, I was unclear.
I use 1/2 of 1% of my starting bankroll.
Look at grinders graph. Bankroll needs to be able handle 60-75 units at risk on any given day. 200 units should be safe.
Can someone explain to a complete betting noob... I have $300 bankroll, and currently betting in $5 increments on each of these bets. Should I be altering the amount I bet each time, or keep using $5 for each? I don't really understand "units" yet.
"Units" is just the amount you assign to your wager "win" amount. When we talk on here, we have to talk in "units" because everyone bets different amounts. If I was to post my daily results, and list the system is up $1800, this would not be accurate for those people wagering $50 per game. However, the system being up 18 units would be accurate for all, regardless of how much they wager.
That helps a lot. I was guessing a unit was how much you bet, but how much you win makes more sense. Would it be recommended to alter each bet so that the wager "win" is around the same each time? Or just bet the same each time regardless of wager "win" amount?
Yes, so if a team we are betting on is -200, we are risking two "units" to win one "unit". Just plug into the equation your actual unit amount and that will tell you in dollars just how much +18 units is.
I play to "win" $100 on every series in every system, regardless of sport. But that is just me. I don't play % of bankroll because I play with a private book with a limit that I would never reach in my worst losing streak. If I am having a great year, I will change my unit amount to $200 for a while, then just drop it back down to $100 if it doesn't pan out. As I said, this is just me. Most people play with fixed bankrolls with a unit amount being a certain % of that bankroll for each system they play. I can't tell you how much to wager, that is a decision you have to make based on your circumstances.
You're betting to win one unit on the A bet.
if the A bet loses, your B bet is to win whatever you lost on the A bet + 1 unit.
If the B bet loses, your C bet is to win what you lost on your A and B bets +1 unit.
As for unit size, with a $300 bankroll, betting only this system, I'd recommend a unit size no higher than $1.50 (200 units).
To answer the ever-important 'bankroll size' question, I do this (in SBR Sportsbook where maximum NHL wager is 500 pts)
... BET A
- bet 'to win' 30 pts (making average bet A around 50 pts risk)
... BET B
- bet 'to win' 100 pts (making average bet B around 170 pts risk)
... BET C
- bet 'to win' 300 pts (making average bet B around 500 pts risk)
So *on average* I would lose around 50+170+500 = 720 pts if a series went wrong. Approximately 24 units. Hope this helps
Thanks for the explanations everyone. Starting to make sense now. Gonna give this a shot; seems interesting so far.
Winner winner, chicken dinner.....
Amazing run with the system so far.....congrats.
Wallco NHL GOLD
2013-14 System to date: 20-0 (fin. series)
System profit/loss: +20.00 units (fin.series)
Current open series: 0
(10/27/13):
#19 Anaheim (+1½) v1 (A) - Win
#20 Winnipeg (+1½) v1 (A) - Win
v1 Fades
(A) 12-3
(B) 3-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
v2 Plays
(A) 5-0
(B) 0-0
(C) 0-0
Losses: None
Games for (10/28/13):
#21 Washington(+1½) @ Vancouver v1 (A) (10:05 pm EDT)
#22 Pittsburgh(M/L) @ Carolina v2 (A) (7:05 pm EDT)
#23 Chicago (M/L) @ Minnesota v1 (A) (8:05 pm EDT)
Do not place any wagers on teams unless you are sure your team is the dog or favorite. The team underlined and highlighted blue is the team we are betting on, regardless of v1 or v2. If you play the closer line games too early, you may be overpaying for a loss if you play the P/L and should have been on the M/L, or lose a game that you would have won had you been on the (+1½) instead of the M/L. We will always play the M/L on favorites and (-110) games, and always play the (+1½) if the team we are betting on is a dog. ALL results will be based on this principle. If it is a close line game, you may want to wait til closer to game time to place your wager so you know whether or not we are on the (+1½) or the (M/L). All lines and standings are based on FINAL lines from ScoresandOdds.com/. If one of the teams we are playing switches from a favorite to a dog, or vice versa, after my initial post, make sure you get the appropriate line if it differs from what I have posted. The wins and losses will be based on who is the dog team on ScoresandOdds.com/ final lines.
System rules & backtest can be found in posts #2446 and #2447.
|
|
Good stuff. I'm not an NHL fan and I know very little about hockey. BUT I've had an amazing week betting on football and I'm going to follow you on your plays tonight!
Let's hope Washington covers....I fat fingered my bet and added an extra digit.
Just be careful. These are SYSTEM plays, not something to hop in and out of. You may get lucky and catch a few wins, but if you hit a few losses and don't see the series through, you could be doing yourself a great disservice.
Reply With Quote
bisturis gave Grinder12000 1 SBR Point(s) for this post.
