1. #36
    Cheme82
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    No problem bro, hope we hit them.

  2. #37
    Cheme82
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    Results:
    1-
    1-0 -2.62units


    YTD
    35-10-0 +66.72 units

  3. #38
    jolmscheid
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    So Cheme....just so I get this right...you are buying three points on your NBA selections and playing them straight correct? And the number behind the play is the amount of units?

  4. #39
    chilidog
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    So Cheme....just so I get this right...you are buying three points on your NBA selections and playing them straight correct? And the number behind the play is the amount of units?

  5. #40
    jolmscheid
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    Dang...If I have 5Dimes I can't buy 3 points and get -165...what about buying 2 points for -155?

    Also Cheme...if you have an edge on a game, why do you buy the 3 points anyways??

    And finally, you think it would still be profitable to use your units and bet the game you have without buying the 3 points? Thanks man!

  6. #41
    Cheme82
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    So Cheme....just so I get this right...you are buying three points on your NBA selections and playing them straight correct? And the number behind the play is the amount of units?
    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    Dang...If I have 5Dimes I can't buy 3 points and get -165...what about buying 2 points for -155? Also Cheme...if you have an edge on a game, why do you buy the 3 points anyways?? And finally, you think it would still be profitable to use your units and bet the game you have without buying the 3 points? Thanks man!
    I'm buying a maximum of 3 points for 10 cents per half point, the number after the line is the amount of units I want to win on the game. So NYK +9 -165 2 means the line was +6, I bought 3 points and I want to win 2 units. If I lose then I would lose 3.3 units.

    I buy points because it increases my edge and sometimes it creates the edge itself because of the price that I get on the points. I remember JM's scam was touting betus and they were even selling 3 points for -170 but were shading the lines on the JM series games (at least for the players that were identified as JM bettors) if you can get the 3 points for -170 them most of my plays are +EV at that price and if you find them shading the lines then you can play against JM and create huge EV. As far as buying 2 points for -155 on some spreads that will be better than playing the available spread at standard -110, if you don't know how to use the half-point calculator then try it out, it will tell you everything you need to know http://www.sportsbookreview.com/betting-tool...alculator.aspx

    Be very careful though because betus is broke according to SBR and they might not pay you so I would try finding a local of some sorts like chilidog has that gives you a similar deal with less risk to your $

  7. #42
    chilidog
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    Yah, I've been playing around with the half-point calculator that I learned about from reading several of your posts. Is this all that you're using, combined with the pinny lines, to make your picks? That must take a ton of time for college football, and even more so with college basketball starting up.

  8. #43
    Cheme82
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    Yeah, that's it bro. It took a bunch of time when I started doing it this season because of the amount of games, but eventually you pick up speed and also learn a few tricks. Now I go to sbrodds and I have it setup so that Pinnacle and Bodog are next to each other, I can spot line discrepancies easier that way. Also after using the calculator for a while you get the feeling of which spreads might represent value and which ones don't depending on the juice and the spread itself. So on a lot of games I don't even bother because I "know" there won't be any value.

    When I started the season I was doing full games, halves, and quarter. That took for ever but that's the reason the CFB picks have picked up almost 300 units.

    Since being cut off I don't spend all the time I was before looking at all those lines, but if your local let's you play them you should definitely look into those.

  9. #44
    chilidog
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    Yah, I can see that it takes a ton of time, heh. I don't know which book my local gets his line from, but I can tell that it's not bodog. I usually get -105 on both sides, but the majority of the time, the spread being offered is the same as pinnacle's.

  10. #45
    jolmscheid
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    Dang Cheme that is just awesome....I wish I had a book that would allow me to get those weak numbers...how far off does the line on Bodog have to be from Pinny's in order for you to place a bet

  11. #46
    jolmscheid
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    Ok so Cheme...on the 1/2 point calculator I took the Magic game tonight where they are favored by -9...both sides are -110 and I put that into the calculator. Now it says on the calculator that if I were to buy it down to -7.5, then the odds are or should be -145.5.....and if I buy 1.5 points at 5Dimes I can get it for -140...so is that +EV? Or is that how I do it?? Thanks

  12. #47
    Cheme82
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    Monday
    11/8/2010

    Charlotte 7 -165 10
    Atlanta 12 -165 3.5
    Denver 5.5 -165 1
    Memphis -1.5 -165 2

    GL

  13. #48
    chilidog
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    GL!

  14. #49
    Cheme82
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    Ok so Cheme...on the 1/2 point calculator I took the Magic game tonight where they are favored by -9...both sides are -110 and I put that into the calculator. Now it says on the calculator that if I were to buy it down to -7.5, then the odds are or should be -145.5.....and if I buy 1.5 points at 5Dimes I can get it for -140...so is that +EV? Or is that how I do it?? Thanks
    That's exactly how I do it, except that I look at Pinny's line on the game which right now has -104 juice on Orlando and -106 on Atlanta. I use those lines and not the lines that I get (-110 on both sides in your case). Look at the window labeled "Favorite's edge" it should read -3.01% (if you use -110 on both sides) so that is not +EV. Remember you can scroll up and down the calculator so you don't have to just move 1.5 points, crossing 2 or 3 numbers with push probability >4% creates a ton of EV if you can but half points for 10 cents.

  15. #50
    Cheme82
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    Just FYI, Charlotte and Atl just cashed but I just noticed that I have Charlotte listed as a 10 unit play. That is a typo, it was just a 1 unit play. Remember my range is 1-5% of my bankroll. The NBA bankroll is at 166.72 units so I can't play anything for more than 8 units.

    If someone unloaded on them then I'm glad you hit it (maybe pushed if you got +4 -110) but keep that in mind in case you see a play that makes no sense.

  16. #51
    chilidog
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    Yah, I thought the 10 unit was a lot, but I did play it, and cashed, buying the 3 points at -165. Thanks for posting that, though; I'll know in the future. Tonight's shaping up to be another awesome night.

  17. #52
    Cheme82
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    You played it for 10 units?

  18. #53
    Cheme82
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    I started my CBB thread with a 2-unit play on Rhode Island today by the way, you can check it out here:

    http://www.sportsbookreview.com/forum/ncaa-baske...-november.html

  19. #54
    thebestthereis
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    u rock

    why not all plays same unit size?

  20. #55
    Cheme82
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    Thanks bro. Because not all plays have the same edge, I bet more if my edge is bigger.

  21. #56
    chilidog
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cheme82 View Post
    You played it for 10 units?
    Yah, I'm glad that it cashed too, whew.

  22. #57
    Cheme82
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    Results:
    4-
    0-0 +7.5 units


    YTD
    39-10-0 +74.22 units

  23. #58
    chilidog
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    I'm lovin this

  24. #59
    jolmscheid
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    Geez Cheme...just look at you go! OK so if I cannot buy 3 points and get -165 or better should I:

    A) Follow your plays without buying points and use the same units?

    Or

    B) Use the 1/2 point calculator and find plays with edge there? (I still don't know if I am using it right tho!)

    Thanks Cheme....

  25. #60
    Cheme82
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    Geez Cheme...just look at you go! OK so if I cannot buy 3 points and get -165 or better should I: A) Follow your plays without buying points and use the same units? Or B) Use the 1/2 point calculator and find plays with edge there? (I still don't know if I am using it right tho!) Thanks Cheme....
    I'll get back to you tonight, have to run.

  26. #61
    Cheme82
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    Tuesday
    11/9/2010
    Indiana 7 -165 8.5
    Cleveland 7 -165 1.7
    Utah 12.5 -165 5.1
    LAC 12.5 -165 1.7
    Portland -6.5 -165 8.5

    GL

  27. #62
    thebestthereis
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    indiana, cleveland +5?

  28. #63
    b3diddy
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    how did you get Indiana to +7?? the highest the line has got is +2...

  29. #64
    thebestthereis
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    type-o

  30. #65
    jolmscheid
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    Hey Cheme or someone else....I think I am using the 1/2 point calculator correctly but I'm not sure...some help would be greatly apprecitated. Thanks guys

  31. #66
    Cheme82
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebestthereis View Post
    indiana, cleveland +5?
    Quote Originally Posted by b3diddy View Post
    how did you get Indiana to +7?? the highest the line has got is +2...
    Yeah guys sorry, I was rushing our of the house and ****** them up. It was +5 with the 3-point buy.

  32. #67
    Cheme82
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolmscheid View Post
    Hey Cheme or someone else....I think I am using the 1/2 point calculator correctly but I'm not sure...some help would be greatly apprecitated. Thanks guys
    Sorry bro, I was on my way to school and running late as usual.

    What you do is grab lines from a book that you consider to be sharp with their lines. I use Pinnacle, some people use matchbook, or the Greek. Choose anyone you want but make sure you trust their lines to be sharp. A book with high limits usually means they have sharper lines than recreational books.

    Let's take tomorrow's game of the Nets at Cleveland. Pinnacle has a line of NJ +5.5 -110 and Cleveland -5.5 +100 so those are the values you put into the calculator.

    Then I see the different spreads and the juice at which they should be priced, I decide if it's better to move the spread up or down. The calculator gives you a range of +1.5 and -1.5 points from the spread you enter. If you move the spread down to -4 the suggested price is -129.6, but if you move it up to 7 the the fair price should be -144.3 so I see it's better to move it up because my hooks cost 10 cents regardless of which way I go.

    If I replace the -144.3 for the +7 spread with -135 (which is what it would cost me to buy 1.5 points then I see that the dog edge changes from -2.33 to 0.43. That's +EV right there, but I scroll down 1.5 more points to +8.5 and see that the true price should be -186.9. I replace that with -165 which is my cost and I read a dog's edge of 2.19%. I round to the closet half and since I have an edge of 2% then I make a bet worth 2% of my NBA bankroll which today was around 174 units so my bet would be for about 3.5 units.

    My local uses Bodog lines and sometimes they are off by half a point and even a whole point, in that case you can finder monster edges moving the same way that the line is slanted. I buy as much as 3 points depending on what creates the biggest edge. Sometimes I don't buy the whole 3 but most times I do.

    I stop at 3 points for 2 reasons:

    1) The calculator becomes less accurate the farther you move from the posted spread and I don't want to overestimate my edge.

    2) I don't want to push it too much with my local because I want to keep doing this. I already got severely limited on the bets I can make in CFB with him. Look at the CFB thread and see how much I took him for and you can see why.

    Hope that helps.
    Last edited by Cheme82; 11-09-10 at 11:04 PM.

  33. #68
    Cheme82
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    Results:
    4-
    1-0 +21 units


    YTD
    43-11-0 +95.22 units

  34. #69
    thebestthereis
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    Quote Originally Posted by chilidog View Post


    I'm lovin this
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBlD2...eature=related

  35. #70
    jolmscheid
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    Thanks cheme! You are absolutely killing it bro! Where do you go to school? I go too...

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