[J.M. Disciple]

Wallco, which do you recommend for JM NBA? 7/5 or 1-3-5. Do you have a betting system for Chase -110 like 1-3-5-7? Thanks, I can't wait for the season to start up.

I am not wallco obviously, but I think I can answer your question since I was pretty active in the forum last season. 7/5 proved to the most profitable long run. There are strings of A-bets that win and miss out on a lot of betting opportunities when only following 7/5; however, A-bets long run when buying 3 points are losing money. What we discussed last season was playing 7/5 and labbying the A-bets. You could implement a 1-5-7 which would be a little more costly. Its really up to you. If you know or are willing to do a labby, then that will be your best bet to go a long with 7/5.

I know a couple people who labby the chase110 as well to go a long with it. I was taking a break from sports betting, but if i put some money in my account I will probably run a labby in a seperate thread for those two mentioned (chase110 & JM ).

Getting the plays posted early is usually not a problem since JM usually has an excel sheet at beginning of the season. Just have to make sure wallco has his plays up or do some of my own research. Your best bet if you have the bankroll 200+ units to start the season would be to follow what wallco does. He seems to have a great track record and bankroll is always increasing from what I know.

Good Luck

[J.M. Disciple]

Anyone have last seasons excel file they can share? I want to test last seasons results to see how my new labby strategy would do. I know beginning of last season a single line labby would of got out of line unless you have a large bankroll especially following multiple systems. My new labby strategy should do just fine using multiple systems and having multiple plays a day. If anyone has last seasons link or file that would share I woul dlike to get my back test done right away so we are fully prepared for this season.

[J.M. Disciple]

OK I was able to find the links myself Didn't need to be spoon fed after all.


2011-2012
http://www.sportsbookreview.com/forum/nba-basket...thread-p2.html

2010-2011
http://www.sportsbookreview.com/forum/nba-basket...-nba-p188.html

I am not sure where the excel file is, but i am sure i can find it pretty quickly now that I have the results. I will be testing the 2010 season since last season was a 66 game season. 2010 will give better results with less 6-7 game road trips.

[Wallco99]

Wallco, which do you recommend for JM NBA? 7/5 or 1-3-5. Do you have a betting system for Chase -110 like 1-3-5-7? Thanks, I can't wait for the season to start up.

The tests we ran showed the 7/5 performed better over the long haul. I like both. Nothing new for Chase 110 yet.

[Wallco99]

I am not wallco obviously, but I think I can answer your question since I was pretty active in the forum last season. 7/5 proved to the most profitable long run. There are strings of A-bets that win and miss out on a lot of betting opportunities when only following 7/5; however, A-bets long run when buying 3 points are losing money. What we discussed last season was playing 7/5 and labbying the A-bets. You could implement a 1-5-7 which would be a little more costly. Its really up to you. If you know or are willing to do a labby, then that will be your best bet to go a long with 7/5.

I know a couple people who labby the chase110 as well to go a long with it. I was taking a break from sports betting, but if i put some money in my account I will probably run a labby in a seperate thread for those two mentioned (chase110 & JM ).

Getting the plays posted early is usually not a problem since JM usually has an excel sheet at beginning of the season. Just have to make sure wallco has his plays up or do some of my own research. Your best bet if you have the bankroll 200+ units to start the season would be to follow what wallco does. He seems to have a great track record and bankroll is always increasing from what I know.

Good Luck

When have I not had them out early? Usually 6:00 AM.

[catt0025]

Hey guys, sorry for the noob post, but I am new to playing a betting system this year and am really excited to start (normally put $20-$30 on a game to make it more interesting or something). My question is what do you mean by the 1-5-7, 7-5 and chase110 betting systems? Thanks for the help, and sorry again for the dumb question.

[TwoCats]

normally put $20-$30 on a game to make it more interesting or something

Be careful - most experienced people around here advise betting to win no more than 1% of your bankroll. I did not know anything about that (bankroll management) and lost all my bankroll in 2008.

Have a look through http://www.sportsbookreview.com/forum/baseball-b...lb-thread.html for more info.

[catt0025]

Be careful - most experienced people around here advise betting to win no more than 1% of your bankroll. I did not know anything about that (bankroll management) and lost all my bankroll in 2008.

Right! By saying what I bet previously, I meant that I was going by no betting system. I was solely betting to bet, not betting to win and playing the odds. For example, I am from Minnesota, so I would bet on the Vikings to win, just to give me more incentive to root for them. As for now, I understand the JM betting system, betting to win no more than 1% of bankroll and so forth. However, I am not sure what is meant by 1-5-7, 7-5 and chase110 betting systems. That's the explanation I need, please. Thanks!

[J.M. Disciple]

When have I not had them out early? Usually 6:00 AM.

I never said you didn't

[J.M. Disciple]

Right! By saying what I bet previously, I meant that I was going by no betting system. I was solely betting to bet, not betting to win and playing the odds. For example, I am from Minnesota, so I would bet on the Vikings to win, just to give me more incentive to root for them. As for now, I understand the JM betting system, betting to win no more than 1% of bankroll and so forth. However, I am not sure what is meant by 1-5-7, 7-5 and chase110 betting systems. That's the explanation I need, please. Thanks!

If you have a $1,000 bankroll your unit size should be $5-$10, so when a 7/5 play comes up you are betting to win 7% or $70 on that wager and if you lose you are betting to win 12units (12%) on your next bet for a total of 19-20 units.

With this method you would be skipping all the A-bets for this chase sytem and waiting for one of them to lose. When an A bet loses then you follow the guide lines above. $70 on B (skipping A) and $120 on C if B loses. If A bet wins you do not make a B wager.

[catt0025]

If you have a $1,000 bankroll your unit size should be $5-$10, so when a 7/5 play comes up you are betting to win 7% or $70 on that wager and if you lose you are betting to win 12units (12%) on your next bet for a total of 19-20 units.

With this method you would be skipping all the A-bets for this chase sytem and waiting for one of them to lose. When an A bet loses then you follow the guide lines above. $70 on B (skipping A) and $120 on C if B loses. If A bet wins you do not make a B wager.

Okay, thank you, that makes perfect sense! So then the 1-5-7 betting system would mean wager 1% on bet A, 6% on bet B, and 13% on bet C? (If A loses, make bet B. If A and B lose, then bet C, obviously.)

[Wallco99]

I never said you didn't

I know!

[Wallco99]

If you have a $1,000 bankroll your unit size should be $5-$10, so when a 7/5 play comes up you are betting to win 7% or $70 on that wager and if you lose you are betting to win 12units (12%) on your next bet for a total of 19-20 units.

With this method you would be skipping all the A-bets for this chase sytem and waiting for one of them to lose. When an A bet loses then you follow the guide lines above. $70 on B (skipping A) and $120 on C if B loses. If A bet wins you do not make a B wager.

$120 plus juice, of course.

[Wallco99]

Right! By saying what I bet previously, I meant that I was going by no betting system. I was solely betting to bet, not betting to win and playing the odds. For example, I am from Minnesota, so I would bet on the Vikings to win, just to give me more incentive to root for them. As for now, I understand the JM betting system, betting to win no more than 1% of bankroll and so forth. However, I am not sure what is meant by 1-5-7, 7-5 and chase110 betting systems. That's the explanation I need, please. Thanks!

Chase 110 is a whole different system. It is one I came up with two years ago and has had a pretty good track record, except for last year (-20 units). By the time the season gets here, you will understand this system as well. It's a four game chase, but don't feel like discussing it in detail right now, there will be time for that later.

[Wallco99]

Okay, thank you, that makes perfect sense! So then the 1-5-7 betting system would mean wager 1% on bet A, 6% on bet B, and 13% on bet C? (If A loses, make bet B. If A and B lose, then bet C, obviously.)

I wouldn't go with that description. Everthing in this forum is discussed in "units". You have to decide for youself what a unit is worth. Some people use 1% of their starting bankroll to equal 1 unit. Little wimpy for me. When I say 1-3-5, it means bet 1 "unit" (whatever amount you came up with) on the (A) bet. If it wins, you are done. If it loses, the (B) bet would be the amount you lost on (A), which is the amount wagered PLUS the juice, plus an additional 3 units. If that bet loses, the (C) bet would be the total amount lost on (A) & (B) plus 5 units.

The 7/5 is the same thing except we don't play (A) bets. If a qualifying game loses the (A) bet (which we didn't play), our first bet would be on the (B) bet for 7 units. If that loses, our (C) bet will be the total amount of $ we lost on (B), plus 5 more units.

Somebody bookmark this post, I don't want to have to explain this every week. Thanks.

[DustyDiamond]

I wouldn't go with that description. Everthing in this forum is discussed in "units". You have to decide for youself what a unit is worth. Some people use 1% of their starting bankroll to equal 1 unit. Little wimpy for me. When I say 1-3-5, it means bet 1 "unit" (whatever amount you came up with) on the (A) bet. If it wins, you are done. If it loses, the (B) bet would be the amount you lost on (A), which is the amount wagered PLUS the juice, plus an additional 3 units. If that bet loses, the (C) bet would be the total amount lost on (A) & (B) plus 5 units.

The 7/5 is the same thing except we don't play (A) bets. If a qualifying game loses the (A) bet (which we didn't play), our first bet would be on the (B) bet for 7 units. If that loses, our (C) bet will be the total amount of $ we lost on (B), plus 5 more units.

Somebody bookmark this post, I don't want to have to explain this every week. Thanks.

Wallco, is it safe to assume when you say bet 1 unit, you are betting to win 1 unit or risking 1 unit?

[Wallco99]

Wallco, is it safe to assume when you say bet 1 unit, you are betting to win 1 unit or risking 1 unit?

Win 1 unit, win 5 units, win 7 units etc.... Loss is units + juice.

[thelimit0310]

A quick note on what was said on 7/5, the optimal way to play it is an A bet loss by 3.5 points to the spread, not just 3 like standard JM. Pushes at +3.5 are also no plays. When the season gets closer I will elaborate on the method for newcomers so no worries.

[Bdolan33]

Hopefully someone will put up the p[lays once the season starts like last year. how profitable was this system last season anyone keep record?

[J.M. Disciple]

Hopefully someone will put up the p[lays once the season starts like last year. how profitable was this system last season anyone keep record?

posted the links to previous seasons above.

[Wallco99]

Limit, do you wish to post the JM plays this season? I have enough to do with Chase 110 for NBA and NHL Gold, if there is a hockey season

[TwoCats]

if there is a hockey season

????

What info am I missing?

[Wallco99]

????

What info am I missing?

As of this past Sunday, the NHL is is lockout, with no end in sight.

[DustyDiamond]

As of this past Sunday, the NHL is is lockout, with no end in sight.

The NHL is only concerned about their wallets. What about our wallets? They should really think about the effects on those not able to play NHL Gold this season.

[JP Varick]

checking In and geeked for the NBA season.

[nitsuj378]

Hey guys. I have the spreadsheet from last season with 4 different betting methods. The 1-3-5, 7-5, B&C to win 3, and B&C to win 3 (buy 3 pts). I did not create these betting methods, I just simply compiled results. Rememeber this is only one season. I do not have information on other seasons. Last season was also slightly shortened and schedules were altered so I am not sure how that would afffect the results. Personally I will play 7-5 with the rules that thelimit stated in last years thread.

Thanks
Justin

[TwoCats]

As of this past Sunday, the NHL is is lockout, with no end in sight.

Thanks - I had missed that.

[TwoCats]

The NHL is only concerned about their wallets. What about our wallets? They should really think about the effects on those not able to play NHL Gold this season.

Quite agree!

[J.M. Disciple]

Thanks Justin,

The results should be greatly affected based on 6-7 game road trips compared to a regular season when its only 3-5 games. Make sure you labby those A-bets a long with the 7/5.

[knugen]

so JM, are u playing a labby for only the A bets and then 7/5 f0r the B and C bets?

[bauerranch]

Checking in- Thanks for everyone's support

[J.M. Disciple]

so JM, are u playing a labby for only the A bets and then 7/5 f0r the B and C bets?

Its more profitable that way, than just playing the 7/5 and skipping all A bets. All depends on bankroll management. The more units you have in your BR the more ways you can play.

[J.M. Disciple]

Looking over the spread sheet in post #61. Did we really have 10 losses last season?

[Wallco99]

Its more profitable that way, than just playing the 7/5 and skipping all A bets. All depends on bankroll management. The more units you have in your BR the more ways you can play.

You have not backtested that to make that statement. All backtests, that I have seen, point towards the A bets not being profitable long haul. I am not necessarily saying I won't play them, possibly 1-3-5, but you can't outright say it is "more profitable" because you may have made a few bucks last year. Show me a long term backtest of that and I will back off, as well as apologize, but until then, I wouldn't post such opinions.

[ChiLLx]

Checking in for another year